If you are here, chances are you have heard something about the wonders of prescription retinoids, so, welcome! On this very detailed post, I share my skincare journey with these not-so-trendy ingredients and how they gave me the best – real – skin of my life. To state the obvious: I’m not a dermatologist, and the purpose of this post is to share my experience. But I do believe we should be our own health advocates.
Intro – my relationship with my skin
So, let’s set something straight: I’m turning 40 next year – and it’s weird to think I’m so close to a number that for so many years I’ve seen as a scary one. I have to be honest: sometimes I feel like lying about my age. But can you blame me? There’s so much pressure from society for not only making your life “happen” when you are “young”, but also, as a woman, there are also the beauty standards to follow all the time: you can’t have wrinkles, white hair, or body fat. Ugh. Not to mention the whole “biological clock” thing and the perimenopause and menopause.
Sometimes it’s hard to find a balance between respecting my body and honoring my age – I’m alive and healthy, for god’s sake! – while falling into the traps of the beauty standards lol. Again, can you blame me? I try my best to take care of myself by doing things that respect my values and make me happy, for my health, and yes, because I want to feel and look beautiful.
No filter, no makeup, natural light. Last time I did Botox was back in February and it has expired lol
I’ve always loved skincare. I think I was influenced by my mom, who has been applying her creams every morning and night religiously since I was a little girl. She has always talked about it as self-care, and when I was really bothered by my acne, she helped me figure out which products I should use. Then, when I was 13-14 years old, I started to sell Avon, and I got even more immersed in that world. And I have never stopped. I created a beauty and fashion blog in 2010, and one of the main reasons was my passion for cosmetics. Then, I moved to NYC and explored brands and stores that I’ve only known from the internet. I even created services and events around the topic – and I published dozens of videos and blog posts featuring my beauty discoveries in the city. My interest is genuine and I’ve been learning a lot – especially over the past year.
And since I finally figure it out a routine with a prescription retinoid that works for me – and also the best ingredient for my case – I’m constantly admiring my skin. I am so proud. Because it looks great, in my humble opinion.
But yes, sometimes I doubt myself. Because every time I open a video on Instagram, TikTok, or YouTube, I see women with perfect skin. No pores, no textures, their foreheads don’t move, they have no wrinkles around the eyes, they don’t have smile lines. And I feel shitty. And then, I have to remind myself that’s not real. That’s probably Botox, fillers, and other things. And hey, I’m not judging them. I did fillers in the past. I did Botox in February – it’s probably expired now. But it’s important to remind yourself of that fact! These women are not special. And that’s why I decided to publish my picture here – a picture of someone who is 39y old and is, most of the time, satisfied with her skin. And what’s my “secret”? Well, let’s talk about it…
My skincare routine – what has changed the game for me
After seeing some content from Dr. Shereene Idriss on Instagram, I headed to her YouTube channel for a deep dive into the retinol topic and watched the video above, which I highly recommend. She’s a dermatologist, an expert, so please do yourself a favor and watch it.
Long story short, there are a lot of retinoids in the market – from the over-the-counter options from brands you know (The Ordinary, L’Oréal, etc) to the prescription options (Tretinoin/ Tazarotene) – these last ones being the most effective not only for severe acne but also for anti-aging. After watching her video, I found the Tretinoin subreddit, and I immersed myself in the topic. I mean, the before and after pictures are IMPRESSIVE.
Like, why are we not talking about this? I know, I know, I know: it’s a prescription ingredient and it should be used with caution, but the more I deep dived into the topic, the more I felt like an idiot spending my money on tons of skincare products that promised everything and delivered so little, while retinoids are underrated and work – as I mentioned, there’s extensive scientific backing. So… I decided to start my Tretinoin journey.
My Tretinoin journey using Altreno
But… you need to BE PATIENT! It can take weeks or even months to find a routine that works for you and to see results… Plus, there are side effects – that make a lot of people give up – and, on top of that, sometimes, it won’t work.
This was how my skin would look 90% of time while I was trying Altreno…
That was what happened with me. I could have just cut to the chase and said: hey, this is what I’ve been using for X months and these are my amazing results. But I believe it’s important to be honest here. I tried Tretinoin for nearly a year. I decided to start with Altreno – a formula that combines Tretinoin with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and collagen to reduce irritation. I was so hopeful. But Altreno didn’t work as I expected.
I had periods when my skin was very irritated and dry, some other periods when it would get a little better, but I’ve never seen that glow that people talked about. I was so frustrated. Especially because I had been through a lot with my skin already. In 2022, I struggled for over 9 months with an irritated, blotchy, and flaky skin that, later, I discovered was an allergy to fragrance ingredients. You can check my journey here.
Arazlo (Tazarotene): the retinoid that worked for me
So when I was finally tired of trying Tretinoin and I was convinced to switch to some over-the-counter retinol, I decided to try one last thing: I switched to Tazarotene. I’ve read a lot of comments and testimonials about it, people who didn’t adapt to Tretinoin saying that Tazarotene was the best choice for them, so I gave it a chance. (Tazarotene is a third-generation retinoid). I discovered Arazlo, which is a very innovative Tazarotene formula – like Altreno is for Tretinoin – with high efficacy and less irritation due to its unique moisturizing lotion formula.
My before and after with Arazlo: first, in February, when I was just starting to use the product. Then, 8 months later.
But please note: this doesn’t mean that what worked for me will work for you. There are a lot of people with successful stories using Tretinoin – and lots of people with cases of irritation using Tazarotene. It’s a journey and you have to be prepared – and I’m not being dramatic. I can’t deny the fact that our skin impacts our self-esteem a lot.
The result was impressive, and I started to notice improvement in my skin in days. I didn’t have irritation, and I barely had peeling. And my skin has been improving a lot – especially when it comes to an even tone, glowing, and reducing small lines. Before using Tazarotene, I had never seen so many impressive results on my skin with any other topical product.
How to get Tretinoin/Tazarotene?
But remember, if you use these services, you are tied to their personalized prescription formulas (often mixed with other actives like niacinamide, azelaic acid, or hydroquinone). When you buy from a pharmacy, you will get a tube of Tretinoin (or Tazarotene) cream/gel at a fixed strength (0.025%, 0.05%, or 0.1%). And to get that, you can use:
- Walgreens or even Amazon One Medical – and then you can possibly have your insurance covering (but I’m pretty sure they only cover if it’s for acne, not for anti-aging purposes).
- Altreno, which is a Tretinoin lotion, also offers tele-health services via their website.
- You can also get Arazlo (which is a Tazarotene lotion) for a discounted price through their coupon program.
These resources are legitimate ways to get a prescription for Tretinoin or Tazarotene. But yeah, there are some people who get it overseas – it’s much cheaper, most of the time. I’m not gonna pretend this is a secret, because you will find tons of topics on the subreddit I mentioned, and this was even a topic covered on a recent Allure’s story – you can check it here.
My skincare routine on Tazarotene – the products I use
- Cleanser – One thing I’ve learned during this journey is that lots of cleansers just strip your skin barrier – cleansing is about balance, not just scrubbing your face clean. Cleansers should cleanse without removing natural lipids, and over-cleansing can lead to irritation, redness, or more oil production as a rebound. The Vanicream cleanser is my holy grail. It’s my second or third tube, and I’m not going back to other cleansers – I learned about it on Reddit, after seeing so many people praising it – and yes, I would never pay attention to this tube or this brand if I was just browsing around the drugstore. But see… packaging doesn’t mean anything! Also, it’s fragrance-free – and I avoid fragrances wherever I can when it comes to skincare.
- Makeup/sunscreen remover – since I apply sunscreen every day, I need to properly remove it. So, I incorporated a cleansing balm in my routine – I like this one from The Inkey List. It’s affordable (especially considering I use it every day!), fragrance-free, and works well. For makeup, sometimes I like to use micellar water.
- Tazarotene – like I mentioned in my previous post, I found Tazarotene was the best option for my skin among the prescription retinoids. But please know that there are excellent over-the-counter retinol options – The Ordinary has a Retinal 0.2% Emulsion that I was considering to try before starting Tazarotene. I highly suggest his video to learn more about all the different kinds of retinol.
- Other actives – besides the Tazarotene, I use other actives in my routine – and I was able to incorporate them over time. One of them is Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% – after doing some research and seeing some recs from derms, it’s good for wrinkles and skin elasticity. But probably what really has changed the game for me after tretinoin is Azelaic Acid. According to Dr. Idriss, Dr. Shereene Idriss, it is one of the most under-hyped ingredients. It tackles acne, pigment, and rosacea all in one. My skin got so much brighter! Mine is a prescription one – Dermatica offers in 15% and 20% and there are tons of brands offering over-the-counter options.
- Exfoliation – like I said, once my skin adjusted to Tazarotene, I also incorporated exfoliators. So, once a week, or maybe every 10 days, I use either the AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution from The Ordinary or the Glow Tonic Serum with Glycolic Acid from Pixi Beauty. On the days I use an exfoliator, I skip the Tazarotene.
- Moisturizer – I think most people just underestimate the importance of a good moisturizer – especially people with oily skin. And when you use actives like retinoids, you need to pay extra attention to that. Since the skin can get really sensitive, it’s important to hydrate and moisturize well. Prioritize formulas with ceramides and glycerin – and I would tell you to avoid formulas with fragrances. These are among my favorite moisturizers: Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer, Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream, S. Nature Aqua Squalane Moisturizing Cream Purito Oat in Calming gel, and The Inkey List Omega Water Cream.
- Oils – When I feel my skin needs, I like to use a face oil – they help lock in hydration, replenish barrier lipids, and sometimes add antioxidant protection. My favorites are the Florihana Plum Organic Oil and The Ordinary 100% Plant-derived Squalane.
- Sunscreen – probably one of the most important skincare steps – and often underestimated. You are not helping your skin by skipping this – it doesn’t matter how much you pay for expensive treatments and creams. My favorite ones are the ones from La Roche Posay – but the European formulas. The last time the U.S. FDA approved a truly “new” UV filter was decades ago. I also love the Korean formulas – like this one, this one, and this one.
- Others – I’m a huge fan of Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum and Exosome Hydroglow Serum, both from The Inkey List. I like to use them right after cleansing, to hydrate the skin.
How my routine looks like
- Morning – Vanicream cleanser + Exosome Hydroglow Serum or Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum + Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% + Moisturizer + Sunscreen
- Evening – Cleansing balm The Inkey List + Vanicream cleanser + Exosome Hydroglow Serum or Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum + Tazarotene + + Azelaic Acid + Face oil (optional, I don’t always use it) + Moisturizer
- Evening 2 (when I exfoliate) – Cleansing balm The Inkey List + Vanicream cleanser + AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution from The Ordinary + Face oil + Moisturizer.
Skincare devices
- Nira Pro Laser – this laser device uses the same 1450nm non-fractional laser technology trusted by dermatologists, and it stimulates natural collagen production to smooth fine lines, restore firmness, and reverse signs of aging. I like the convenience – it takes only 2 minutes per day. I’ve been using it since March, and I noticed my fine lines in my forehead are less visible, but I can’t say if it’s because of the Laser or if it’s because of Tazarotene. But if you look on YouTube, you will find a lot of great reviews about it.
- JOVS 4D Laser Anti-Aging Therapy – there’s a lot of conversation online about light therapy. This one uses VecSL Laser Chip Technology, it’s 6x stronger than LED, with the promise of wrinkle reduction, firmer skin, and brighter tone. I do notice a better complexion right after I use it. But, like I said, for any skincare device, you need consistency and time – and you are probably preventing more than minimizing damage.
- Medicube Age-R Booster – to be honest, I only use the micro-current function of this device, because I had a great experience with Nuface in the past and I’ve really seen results. And, at that time, the only active ingredient I was using was Niacinamide (which explains my brighter skin), and I really noticed a difference in my nasolabial lines. And I still need to do some tests, but something tells me Nuface is better than the Medicube when it comes to micro-current.
Brands
- The Ordinary – I mentioned some of their products in this post. I mentioned the ones I use previously, but I also want to give a shout-out to their Growth Factors serum; it’s amazing.
- The Inkey List – as you noticed, I also love this brand, and I use a lot of their products on a daily basis.
- Good Molecules – I love love love their 5% Niacinamide Serum With Ectoin.
- Timeless – they have a dupe for the Skinceuticals Ferulic Acid serum.
- Prequel – this brand is on my radar. I really want to try their Vitamin C Serum.
- Naturium and Paula’s Choice – offer great formulas for reasonable prices
Some notes about Tretinoin/Tazarotene
- First, you only apply it at night. Start slow (1 day on, 2 days off and increase little by little.
- Use a gentle cleanser.
- Use only a pea-sized amount. Avoid the eye area.
- Use a good moisturizer – your skin will get dry, and you need to pay attention to this. Prioritize formulas with ceramides and glycerin.
- Stop any other actives while introducing a retinol – vitamin C, acids, etc…
- Keep it simple! Cleanser, retinol, moisturizer at night. Cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen during the day.
The lies we are told – why prescription retinoids don’t get a lot of attention?
In a country where people are afraid of going to the doctor because of the bills, can you blame these same people for finding “sketchy” ways to buy prescription retinoids? I’m not even talking about anti-aging purposes – but for people with severe acne, since Tretinoin is one of the best ways to treat severe acne.
This also led me to think about how the beauty industry is always introducing new campaigns with ads featuring models and celebrities with retouched skin – and probably lots of fillers and Botox – holding products with fancy packaging and promising miracles when all I needed was a tube of Tazarotene, sold in a very cheap packaging, lol.
Perhaps that’s why prescription retinoids don’t get a lot of attention – probably because they are cheap. They don’t come in fancy packages. They work – and honestly, you don’t need much more once you find a formula that works for you, so they can’t keep selling you more products…
This reminds me of Brandon Truaxe. If you don’t know his story, perhaps The Ordinary rings a bell? Truaxe was the founder of Deciem, the group that The Ordinary is part of, and whoever remembers the launch of this brand knows how disruptive it was, because it started to offer active ingredients, in simple packaging, for a fraction of the price of famous brands. Truaxe had worked at a skincare lab, and he became angry at the lack of passion, transparency, or insight when beauty products were being developed. I still remember how some people were skeptical about the brand’s prices. “It’s probably bad quality,” or “Does it work?” were common comments and questions.
But any person with a minimum understanding of marketing knows that, for a lot of things – if not for all the things in the world – people relate high prices with better quality and cheap prices with bad quality. The more expensive it is, the better it is. I remember when I listened to an interview with the founder of Drunk Elephant, a skincare brand that became an overnight success. She specifically said that she couldn’t set low prices for their products; otherwise, people would think they didn’t work!
There’s a whole conversation about how the L’Oréal Group, for example, offers the same or similar formulas under different brands, targeted for different audiences and budgets – like Lancôme and L’Oréal; Kérastase and Ever Pure; and SkinCeuticals and L’Oreal Paris. Abbey Yung is a beauty YouTuber who talks about that A LOT! She has a whole “method” to treat your hair using drugstore brands only. AND I MEAN LOOK AT HER HAIR!
If you think about fragrances, it’s not different. Dossier, for example, offers high-quality, designer-inspired fragrances at affordable prices by removing traditional markups and focusing on ingredients from Grasse, France.
It was not long after The Ordinary was launched, and I started to read more about it, that I also dedicated some time to understanding more about skincare ingredients. I want to give you an example that I’ve mentioned in another post. One day, while browsing on Google Discover, a headline caught my attention: “Chrissy Teigen Says Plum Oil Is Magical For Skin”. Reading the article, I discovered Chrissy was referring to Le Prunier Plum Beauty Oil, which costs $72.
I did my homework and I checked the ingredients: Organic Prunus Domestica Seed Oil. Nothing less, nothing more. After googling it, I found Florihana Plum Organic Oil, which is made from plums cultivated in France. They have different sizes, and prices start at $5,90. Not only did I love it, but I also recommended it to my mom and my sister, and they both love it.
Yes, unfortunately, there are trademarked formulas, and not all the products will have only one ingredient – but with some knowledge and some research on Google and Chat GPT (and on Reddit, lol!), you can pretty much find more information about which products are worth your money and if there are affordable options out there.
My resources to check claims, ingredients and learn more
- INCIDecoder – an online cosmetics database. Check and decode skincare ingredients with their science-based but easy-to-understand explanations. You can either use their search, upload a photo, or copy/paste ingredients.
- Pore-clogging ingredients – this was LIFE-CHANGING for me. If you have acne-prone skin, you need to start using this immediately. I was using so many products that were causing me breakouts – like my cleansing balm, for example! And, because of this website, I discovered that, even if the package says “noncomedogenic”, “oil-free”, or “won’t clog your pores”, that doesn’t mean it’s safe to use on your skin. So, every time I want to start to use a new product, I make sure to check the ingredients on this website.
- Yuka – I know this app is controversial, but as someone who is allergic to some fragrance ingredients, Yuka is a lifesaver for me. I can use the camera to read the barcode – and it shows the ingredients list for you, already listing them considered the most “dangerous” first. It is much easier for me to check a product formula using this app than reading the lowercase letters of the labels, at the risk of missing something.
- YouTube – there are a lot of dermatologists on social media and my favorite ones are Dr. Shereene Idriss and Dr. Dray. Their tips and advice are based on science and research. I learn so much with them!
- Reddit – although the Tretinoin subreddit is mostly about Tret, there is a lot of great advice regarding other actives and excellent discussions – like this one. There are also other useful subreddits about skincare, such as SkincareAddiction.
Final notes!
- Learning about actives and what works for your skin takes time. Seeing results takes time. And, sometimes, most of the work we are doing today is probably preventing more damage than reverting the damage itself. And let’s be realistic: it’s not about miracles or about achieving some filter level skin. Skin has texture, skin has pores. Sometimes is important to remind yourself of that.
- In a world where we don’t have patience for videos over 30 seconds, where the fashion industry releases new collections every week, and where there’s a new beauty/food/fashion trend every week, it’s easy to fall into the speed trap – so, I guess it’s important to remember: skincare is about consistency and time. Be patient! Some results are not gonna be overnight. Also, I would say most of our efforts around skincare are more preventive.
- The more you know, the better will be your decisions, so, take time to actually learn about skincare and ingredients. Studying, researching and learning about actives gave me so much power and confidence! And, of course, take everything with a grant of salt: you know your skin, you know your needs, you know your budget. Do your research – you can even use Chat GPT to search for evidence and studies.
- I know it will sound cliché, but our lifestyle choices also matter and reflect in our skin: drinking tons of water and sleeping well will show on our skin. Not to count your eating habits and exercising.
- Last, but not least: if you decide to buy any of the products mentioned on this post, please consider using my links. I get a small commission.
AND LIKE I MENTIONED AT THE BEGINNING: I’m not a dermatologist, and the purpose of this post is to share my experience. But I do believe we should be our own health advocates. The more we know, the better!
Content creator and journalist in New York City. Here, I share lifestyle, beauty, NYC tips, thoughts, and the struggles about living in the most amazing city in the world! I’m not gonna pretend to be another person: I’m a Brazilian immigrant and I think this is my soul, it is part of who I am. I hope you enjoy my content! Follow me on Instagram!
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